Tokina 100mm f2.8 with D600

After building my Fullframe setup, I finally have some time for some serious macro shoot. I have in mind due to the higher depth of field in fullframe (FF) sensor, I need to stop down more on the aperture to get more depths in focus. When using m4/3 due to the small sensor, I can use f5.6 to f8 to get a decent depth for macro. But using a FF camera a f11 to f16 is required. However due to the better dynamic range and better ISO (high) I am able to compensate the disadvantage.

There is also a "cheat" way to get bigger magnification by using the DX mode of D600. The 100mm will become a 150mmf2.8 lens at 10 Mega Pix resolution. A 10MP sensor is almost the same as the older D200 Dx DSLR. But I still prefer to use the FF sensor to max out the resolution.

 Handling the 100mm tokina is fairly easier than the Olympus 60mm. The 1:1 ratio can be switch immediately whereas the 60mm Olympus, you will need to turn and hold the knob on the lesn.

The switching of auto focus and manual focus is just pull-push the focus barrel. The weight is great for hand hold too.

Using Non-CPU lens (Manual lens) on D600

I believe most of the Nikon users will know this feature and the manual book has also indicated on how to do it. I highlight here to let more people know that using manual lens(nikon AI 1977 and later) in a DSLR especially on Nikon DSLR is convenient and easy. Do note that some lower spec DSLRs (D5xxx, D40s,D60s etc) in the Nikon line do not have this feature. Much older lens like NON_AI, are unable to use this way.

I have a AI modified 85mm f1.8 K lens, during my days of mirrorless, I adapted this lens via a lens adpator onto my EPM-1 and OM-D EM-5. During focusing, I will usually use the magnifying effect of the EVF on the Om-D to assist my focus and some other users will use the focus peaking function(EP-5, Sony NEX etc). Using such function do strain the eyes and  extra step in press buttons to activate the functions.

With D600, after setting the lens info into the camera (see manaual for more info), the camera will know what lens and aperture I am using. With mirrorless cameras, this is not possible. There is a confirmed focus indicator in the viewfinder too and the indicator will guide the user to turn the focus ring left or right. I just need to half-press the shuttor button and start focusing!

This is a advantage for me. I have tested the focus and is reliable!

Now my aperture reading is able to be read by the camera on a old AI manual lens. The AF confirmation lock indicator on the OVF is a good assist tool.

Haji Lane and Arab street outing

Photoshoot with 50mmf1.8D AF and Nikkor 85mm AI f1.8 Manual.

Both are superb lens for walking around with. The Manual focus lens 85mm is easy to use on a D600 as the viewfinder is bright and 100% accurate. Finally I am using the 85mm 's 100% glass on the fullframe DSLR. No need to depend on EVF and focus peaking technique as I was using the mirrorless.

Test Time lapse on D600

One feature I am excitied about the D600 is the build in time lapse function. I shot a sequence of 29 frames(see the above)  and the camera do the rest to create a 1second movie. I am still very new to this type of photography. Will experiment more. All shot with 24-85mm VR f3.5

Gardens by the Bay in morning light. Shot by D600 w 24-85 f16 1/20s ISO100.

SEA Aquarium - Test low light with D600

As this week is a school holiday, I took time off to bring my family to this newly open marine life park in Sentosa Singapore. This aquarium was newly open earlier this year and is one of the main attraction in the island of Sentosa.

I brought my newly acquired D600 with the mid range 24-85mm zoom plus the 100mm f2.8 macro. All dump into the F5bX domke bag.

As it is a FF DSLR, I set the camera to Auto ISO with a max setting of 6400 to see how it perform. I came from the old school film days and during my initial Digital days, the iso performance for Canon 10D or Canon 1Dmark2 wasn't that good compared to today's technology. Last time I only push to ISO 800 or 1600 at max with lots of noise reduction later.

Even when I was using OM-D, I am very particular in controlling my ISO setting as I always prefer a low setting to get the best details on the image. Too much noise reduction by the camera or photo editing program do reduced the details and sharpness.

One main advantage of a DSLR is the no lag from squeezing the shutter to capture the image. For M4/3 like OM-D EM-5, even the AF is fast, the actual capturing of the image has some lag.
In the low lightcondition of the aquarium, the D600 did well and is able to react to my action. The buttons are well placed and the handling is firm and confident. One good thing is the battery life. After shooting for 300 shots, one battery bar was used only, the specs show 900 shots for 1 full charge but I believe it can do more. For my OM-d, one battery last 300-400 shots only.The only disadvantage is still it's weight but it is a small compromise in exchange of the above. However, it is not that heavy if we didn't attached the pro zoom like the 24-70 f2.8 or 80-200mmf2.8. For 24-85mm or primes lens, it is still fairly small and light.

Here are some of the better shots of the day. One tip is that in shooting thru glass panel like this, avoid shooting round or curved glass panel, it is not easy to get a firm focus due to the diffraction of the glass. For flat panel there is no issue at all.

 ISO-3200 with the below crop

ISO-3200 crop from above. Nice high ISo and great details still.

Building up my Fullframe system D600

I build my D600 Nikon system based on my tested and preferred way of shooting style with the M4/3 system. I did the opposite by going back to DSLR fullframe abandoning the light weight promise by mirrorless system. With the fullframe sensor I am able to have a 100mm f2,8 from Tokina (macro 1:1) replacing my 2 favorite lenses Olympus 45mmf1.8 and 60mm f2.8 Macro.

The Tokina 100mm f2.8 although a old AF lens D lens, the focus is responsive with the D600. The bokeh is wonderful. (due to the fullframe sensor, this will be the fact). It will be my portrait and nature Macro lens. The Olympus 60mmf2.8 never satisfied me as a f2.8 lens on my m4/3 will not have the "pop" effect unless we get real close to the subject or the background distance is far enough.

I have a cheap Nikon 50mm f1.8 D lens too as a replacement for my m4/3 Panasonic 20mmf1.7. This will be my everyday lens. Cheap and sharp,

The Nikon 24-85mm VR lens will be a general purpose lens and I will not be getting a f2.8 24-70mm anytime soon due to the price and weight. Still good to have a zoom for some applications like travel and events. This should be my least used lens in my arsenal.

I am still a believer of fixed-focal lens as per during my m4/3 days. That's the way to get the best image out and making a photographer to understand the angle of view and do the walking. Fixed-focal lens size is also an advantage to me.

Lastly, I kept my old Nikkor 85mmf1.8 K (AI modified lens) for D600. This will be used for cases i want things slow and get the best bokeh effect etc.

D600 with attached 50mmf1.8 D and Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro/ Nikon 24-85mmf3.5-4.5 VR. all in a small Domke FB5X.

 - By 50mmf1.8 D

 Tokina 100mmf2.8

 Tokina 100mm f2.8

Action freeze by Tokina 100mmf2.8..fast responsive AF

 Nice smooth bokeh by 50mmf1.8 D -Old and cheap AF lens.The dynamic range is not bad for FF.

Strolling by park- 50mmf1.8 D

Moving to Fullframe finally

In 2009 I sold all my Canon DSLR gear for the mirrorless system and I am particularly into the m4/3 system leaded by Olympus and Panasonic. This system has made me enjoy photography once again due to the portability and good image quality.

I am particularly impressed by the EM-5 OM-D by Olympus for it's image output at high iso. However as this market developed, I soon find the pricing of some of it's professional grade lens are too pricey. For DSLR like Canon or Nikon, some of it's older lens which is still compatible to the latest DSLR is a draw to me. These older lens with great lens design and image output sometimes cost a fraction of the newer mirrorless lens.

When Nikon came out the D600, the price of the fullframe seems to be affordable compared to 3-5years back. If today I do not want a fullframe DSLR, I will still stick to the m4/3. A APS_C camera weight saving is not as great as a m4/3 and the image is not so different. With a fullframe camera, the standard measure focal length is much convenient. (we have to accept even with digitial technology, for the past 10-12years , people are still using 35mm equivalent focal length to relate to the angle of view) 

Today a Olympus EP-5 with EVF and 17mmf1.8 kit cost about $1500USD. A used D600 is about the same price and if I paired up with a 50mm f1.8 D lens ($70USD). I can go FF at the same price as a EP-5.Looking at the new EM-1 OM-D rumours price of $2000USD, I am really disappointed with the way Olympus market the price. 

After I used the FF DSLR, I truly understood what a 35mm sensor can do. It's really can capture more dynamic range, making a subject pop-out and the shutter lag is virtually zero (compared to m4/3).

BTW, I am also able to put my D600 w 85mm (AI-K) or Tokina 100mmf2.8 , 50mmf1.8 and a 24-85mm into my domke F5Bx (small shoulder bag). 

The body of D600 is the same size as a D7000 but the sensor is a FX fullframe thus making a great attraction to me.